Cycling across islands while enjoying the beautiful sea and the flesh sea breeze
On your bike seat, get ready to encounter amaizing scenery you will never experience in a car seat.
After starting out from Imabari's cycling terminal, Sunrise Itoyama, I head toward the first island, Oshima. Today I plan to cycle around Oshima Island. I've crossed the Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge many times before, but it will be my first experience leisurely cycling all the way around Oshima Island. I heard that some new shops have opened up, so I'm looking forward to checking them out. Today I plan to save the challenge of Mt. Kirosan for last, so I'm beginning at a more relaxed pace, without pushing myself too hard.
Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge is the symbol of the Shimanami Kaido. It's the first suspension bridge structure in the world to link three bridges: First Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge (960 meters), Second Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge (1,515 meters), and Third Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge (1,570 meters), for a total of 4,105 meters. You can ride over the sea for about 4 kilometers on this bridge. On the northern side of the bridge is a lane exclusively for cyclists and pedestrians. The lane on the opposite (southern) side is reserved for motorbikes up to 125cc. Since motorbikes and bicycles use separate lanes, it's not nerve-wracking at all - but it's important to watch out for pedestrians while riding. Today, too, I passed lots of people enjoying cycling and walking. The bridge soars 65 meters above the surface of the water - the view from on top is incredible! I rode along leisurely while enjoying the scenery. The 4 kilometers went by before I knew it.
I have arrived on Oshima Island! Today I turn to the right, head for the route that circles the island. The road hugging the coast continues flat for a while. It's really pleasant!
I pass through Mukuna with its rustic fishing port and great atmosphere and continue for several kilometers on the seaside road. As a note for those who want to zoom across the Shimanami Kaido, most people take Route 317 which cuts straight through the center of the island. But the route I chose this time, while longer, has relatively fewer cars passing through. I really recommend this route for people who want to go at their own pace and enjoy the scenery without worrying about cars.
One of the reasons I chose this route is because I wanted to go to Paysan, a natural yeast bakery. The bread here is in such high demand that people line up even before the bakery opens. It's made with homemade natural yeast and baked in a handmade stone oven (I didn't even know you could make an oven yourself!). Customers come from all over Ehime and even from outside the prefecture. It's only open on Thursdays and Saturdays, so you have to know what you want before you go! I ended up buying so much. You can also enjoy pizza and sandwiches after 12:00 p.m. Today, however, I'm hurrying onward - so after eating just one piece of bread, I hit the road again.
About two kilometers from Paysan is Yoshiumi Rose Park. If it's rose season you definitely have to go to this spot! 3,500 bushes representing 400 varieties of rose from all around the world bloom beautifully in the garden. It just so happens that right now (the end of May), the roses are at their peak. I found myself entranced by the beautiful blooms as the scent of roses floated about on the air. I really enjoyed the elegant feeling. Visiting this rose garden is completely free, by the way. There are a couple shops and benches, as well as a restroom, so I recommend stopping by if you want to take a break from cycling.
I'm now going to get on Route 317 and head to the route on the eastern side of the island. There are a lot of uphills and downhills on the eastern route, so it's pretty hard. With the goal of delicious lunch and sweets in mind, I'll keep pressing on!
Taking the road which passes in front of the Chinese restaurant Shimanami-en, I continue along toward Shitsumi. Oh, suddenly I've come to an intense uphill! Even though I was mentally prepared for it, it was quite difficult. After passing through the tunnel and heading downhill, I came to an area by the sea called Shitsumi. This area is also a great, relaxed spot. It's like time flows differently than it does in downtown Imabari. There are no people or cars to be seen…
The place I'm headed for is "Shokudo Mitsubachi." It's still quite a ways ahead, but there are signs with area maps here and there, so feeling confident that I'm on the right road, I continue onward, uphill, downhill, uphill, downhill. The hills are intense and I felt like giving up partway through, but glimpses of the sea unfolding before my eyes spurred me to keep pressing on.
After much struggle I finally arrived at Shokudo Mitsubachi. It's a popular cafe that was opened some years ago by a young couple who moved to Oshima Island. Women in particular are bound to love the beautiful location with views of the sea and the cute interior brimming with handmade appeal. I was really delighted looking at the decor and all the adorable trinkets! Shokudo Mitsubachi definitely takes "Joshi Ryoku" (Girl Power), or femininity, up a notch!
I had wanted to try the fish set lunch, but unfortunately it was all sold out. It's best to go earlier since they only have a limited amount every day. Besides fish, they also serve baked curry and omu-rice; today I ordered the omu-rice. The rice wrapped in the fluffy egg omelet had a hint of mikan flavor - something you'll only find in Ehime Prefecture! When I took a big bite, the hint of mikan fragrance spread across my palate, balancing perfectly with the demi glace sauce. I devoured the omu-rice with gusto. So satisfying!